Riffle Run COE, Burnsville Lake, Burnsville, WV; May 23-31, 2016

This is another new area for us and it turned out to be an enjoyable time. The area is full of little towns with interesting names and not much else, but we enjoy that, so life is good. The nearest grocery store is about only 20 minutes away and the countryside is lush green forests and rolling hills, so what is not to like? As with all Corps of Engineers parks, the campground is situated on a lake, and since this is a holiday weekend, it is expected to be full. The campground we're in is walk-in only (no reservations accepted) and since we arrived mid-morning on Monday, we had no trouble finding a site. By Thursday, most were occupied, though. It's a well cared for campground with a reasonable amount of green space between most sites.

After we got settled in our new spot, we drove across the main road to a Civil War battlefield. There are some photos with information about the battle – the last significant one in the area during the Civil War. A footnote to the info in the photos: The Confederate force outnumbered the Union two to one, twice the Confederate leader insisted the North surrender to which Captain Mattingly responded, “I will fight until Hell freezes over and then I will fight on ice.” The battle lasted 12 hours, with the South suffering 8 killed and 8 wounded while the Union leader, William Mattingly, was not mortally wounded and the only other injuries in the Union camp were slight.

As we began walking, we noticed a strange buzzing noise. The farther we walked the louder it was and we decided it had to be insects. I'm glad I wasn't alone in the dark, though, I'd have been a bit apprehensive. As we rounded the last turn in the walk, we noticed some insects on a tree and walked over to take a look. All around the base of the tree were what looked like hard-shelled bugs about three-quarters of an inch long, and on the trees there were some hard-shelled bugs and some with wings. Rich thought it was cicadas, but the sound was different from any we had heard before. After some conversation with locals, we found that it was an emergence of brood V of the 17 year periodical locust. The nymph stage, which spends its life about six inches underground where they feed on roots. When it's time (don't know how they know) they crawl to the surface, then crawl up a tree to begin to shed the exoskeleton. The noise can be quite loud, especially if you are in the middle of an emerging group. A species of cicada in Australia has a call of over 120 decibels and one species found in North America was measured at 108.9 decibels. On a website called cicada mania, you can learn all about them and even play audio clips of various sounds – courting, chorus, help, etc. Who knew? Not me, for sure.

We didn't do a lot here since I was still under the weather, but we hit a local “outlet mall” and found a couple kitchen tools and wandered around a bulk food store. We took some drives around and went through little towns with names like Heaters, Gem, Flatwoods, Guardian, Replete, and Caress. Burnsville, the tiny little town just outside the park had a little Memorial Day parade that was enthusiastically greeted by viewers. I'm not sure, but the number of folks in the parade may have outnumbered those watching, but it was good to see the tributes to the military personnel and their families. Too often we think of it as just a day off rather than a time to honor those who have died during their military service.

Now we're headed to Shawnee Campground, a state park in Pennsylvania.

                                                              Audio of the locusts

Big Bone Lick State Park, Union, KY; May 16 to 23, 2016

Another new state and park for us, Big Bone Lick is an interesting place but would not normally rank high on our list of best campgrounds. The sites are short with no buffer between them, and it's like being in a fishbowl; however, the park is well-kept, attractive, and we saw a number of deer wandering through the campground. Throw in the buffalo herd, the museum, and history, it moves way up the list. It's also close to good grocery stores and lots of other shopping, so we can deal with the less than perfect campground.

The small museum in the park has beautifully prepared exhibits featuring some of the bones and artifacts found on site as well as lots of information. There are plans for expansion of the museum, and we will try to return when it is finished.

There is also a trail that leads around to the salt water creek where the bones were found and which Native Americans traveled to in order to collect salt. A monument stands at the Visitor Center to Mary Draper Ingles: “In the summer of 1755, Virginia settler Mary Draper Ingles was captured by Shawnee warriors and brought to their village near present-day Portsmouth, Ohio. In the autumn of the year, Ingles and other captives were taken to collect salt at this Lick where they observed the big bones.

“While there, Ingles and another woman prisoner escaped from their Shawnee captors and hiked eastward in increasingly colder weather for forty days. Part of the path the women traveled is not Kentucky route 8, or Mary Ingles Highway.

“Mary was found by Adam Harmon, an acquaintance of Ingles, but Mary's fellow escapee was not with her.”

After reading the text on the monument, I purchased the book “Follow the River” by James Alexander Thorn. The author writes in the first chapter that in order to get a feel for the story, he "spent many weeks retracing Mary Ingles' steps through the mountains..." "Toward the end of my familiarization with that terrain, I climbed over the palisade cliffs she traversed on the last day of her odyssey. ... the pillars of the cliff still stand out above the river, and Mary Ingles' route can still be followed - on all fours, of course. I climbed it, on a dry, moderate morning, fortified by a good night's rest in a sleeping bag and a breakfast of tinned beef, and the crossing took me three hours. That she crossed it on an icy day after six weeks of starvation and fatigue is marvelous." It is an amazing story, but the first couple of chapters are very graphic and I haven't been able to go back to the book. One rainy day I'll give it another try.

In addition to everything else offered at this park, there is a bison herd. There were several month-old calves with their mothers and a beautiful 1,800 pound male. The calves were soon to be auctioned to other locations, so we were lucky to see the cute little ones. We spent an enjoyable hour watching the bison and talking with one of the keepers.

If you're interested, here's a more in depth description of the park's history, read on:

The park is named for the huge cache of ice age animal bones found around the salt water creek that runs through the area. The region's surface bedrock started out about 450 million years ago as layers of bottom sediment in an ocean that covered Kentucky. Below the surface bedrock are sedimentary rock layers that were deposited earlier in oceans and tidal flats. One of the subsurface, salt-containing layers is the source of the sulfurous brine that rises through bedrock fractures to emerge in the Lick's springs. Evidence suggests major ice-ages have occurred during the earth's history about 7 times and humans arose during the latest of these global chills which began about 2 million years ago. Big Bone Lick was close to the southernmost edge of the ice during each one of the four major advances. Each of the advances was followed by a warmer interglacial period when ice melted and retreated to about present positions. The melt water from the glaciers formed large lakes along this glacial front and carved out the broad Ohio River floodplain. As the glaciers retreated northward the river valley became choked with a thick layer of alluvial sediment where extensive marshlands developed.

Fossils of oceanic organisms, including corals, clams, and snails have been found in the outcroppings of rocks in the hills surrounding Big Bone Lick. The minerals and the salt water creek that ran through the area drew all sorts of ice age creatures. Bones from mastodons, mammoths, ground sloth, ancient bison, enormous stag-moose, and primitive horses have been found here. Comparatively speaking, the mammal bones at the Lick are youngsters - they are from land animals that lived in the area a mere 20,000 years ago and about 400 million years after the disappearance of the sea from the region.

“The earliest Paleoindians (around 13,000 to 15,000 years BC) in the area not only sought mammoths and mastodons, but they also utilized the salt in the springs.

“Several American Indian nations knew of the partially exposed big bones on this valley floor before a French military party discovered the fossils in 1739. American and foreign museums have since acquired tens of thousands of fossil bones from this location.

“The Shawnee were exited from the region in the 1790's, but salt manufacturing at Big Bone continued until market competition caused the salt works to close in 1812. Around that time, the first of a series of inns opened near Big Bone Lick to welcome guests who bathed in and drank the sulfurous brine to cure their ills. The last inn closed in the early 1900's, partially due to the increased availability of bottled medicines for treating a variety of ailments.

“In October 1803, while traveling down the Ohio River to meet William Clark for their expedition to the Pacific, Meriwether Lewis visited Big Bone Lick. He was to gather fossillized bones for President Thomas Jefferson. In September of 1807, Clark supervised a three week dig for bones at Jefferson's request. Scientists consider William Clark's dig at Big Bone Lick in 1807 as establishing American vertebrate paleontology.

“Among the bones found at Big Bone Lick are those of at least eight species that became extinct around 10,000 years ago. The mastodon, Harlan's ground sloth, stag-moose, woodland musk ox, and ancient bison first became known to science on the basis of remains uncovered in this valley. The wooly and Columbian mammoths, complex-toothed horse, and Jefferson's ground sloths are also found here, but were initially identified at other North American fossil sites.

“In addition to the extinct animals, the Lick contains bones of moose, caribou, elk, American bison, and white-tailed deer. The deer is the only one of these living species that continues to roam the region and visit the lick.” Big Bone Lick State Park information.

Now it's off to Riffle Run Campground – an Army Corps of Engineers park.

Poole Knobs Recreation Area, LaVergne, TN; May 209, 2016

The park setting was beautiful - rugged, wooded sites, some of which were on the water. You'd never know that it is only 40 minutes from Nashville. The big drawback was the “buddy” sites. These are two sites on one pull-through. Some are situated such that it would be nearly impossible to back out without tearing up a rig if the front site is occupied. Of course, the other drawback is the very close location of the two sites, but presumably, they are for families and friends who camp together. There are, however, some beautiful sites that aren't buddies. The restrooms were pretty sad – old, dark, and creepy. We ended up driving to one since the one within walking distance was up a steep, gravelly path and the restrooms were even worse than the ones we drove to! The park info on the web and on their map all said there was a laundry in the park, but there wasn't.

We had planned on doing a day trip to Nashville but I was feeling under the weather, so we didn't do any hiking and I didn't even take any photos of the campground!

On to Big Bone Lick State Park, 

Persimmon Hill Recreation Area, Enid Lake, Oakland, MS; May 2 to 9, 2016

It was so very good to get out of our "enforced stay" at Natalbany Creek and back on the road – the only thing we'll miss is the wonderful, fresh seafood we've enjoyed.

After a four hour drive, much of it over very rough interstate highway, we arrived at our new location. A beautifully maintained Corps of Engineers park, Persimmon Hill, underscored the dreariness of Natalbany.

We settled into our routine easily and on our first full day took an exploratory drive partway around the lake where we found an even nicer campground. I suspect we'll be staying here again.

The nearest town of any size (population 7,500) is Batesville, just a few miles away. We drove up one day to scout it out, and do some shopping.

Rich bought a fishing license and spent a quiet few hours trying for elusive bass and on the way back to camp passed a pasture where he saw a brand-new calf and its mother near the fence. He picked me up and we hurried back to watch for a while.

The North Mississippi Fish Hatchery is located on the edge of the park on 58 acres the state leases from the Corps of Engineers. The hatchery is a state-of-the-art facility that cultures fish for Mississippi waters.

The visitor center boasts a 10,000 gallon aquarium stocked with native fish, and there are displays, interactive exhibits, artifacts, and an art gallery. In addition to professional paintings, drawings by school children are featured in the conference room. Rich especially enjoyed a realistic interactive display that simulated reeling in a fighting bass. It was the most fight he got out of a fish while we were in Mississippi.

The hatchery facilities include one-acre production ponds for holding brood fish and different sized fingerlings, as well as raceways and a catch-and-release pond for visitors.

The hatchery cultures northern largemouth bass, Magnolia, white and black crappie, southern walleye, redear sunfish, coppernose bluegill, both channel and flathead catfish, grass carp, alligator gar and paddlefish.

The NMFH is a technologically advanced facility that relies on fishery science to determine the precise process for culturing fish. The process works to mimic the water temperature, light levels and other factors that contribute to successful spawning in wild habitats. Fish need shelter and spawning areas, so woody debris, gravel or even Christmas trees can be added to a pond during construction or after filling.

Depending on the species, female fish produce from a few hundred to thousands of eggs when spawning in the wild. The white crappie produces as many as 40,000 eggs - only a few may be fertilized and begin to grow.

The process of culturing fish may be a simple as allowing fish to naturally spawn in ponds or require hatchery staff to hand strip brood fish. For example, once hatchery staff determine a female brood fish has ovulated, the staff strip the eggs by applying gentle pressure to the fish's abdomen, releasing eggs into a bowl. Simultaneously a male fish is squeezed to release milt over the eggs. Fertilized eggs are then incubated at specific water temperatures in a carefully controlled environment. The hatchery raises about two million fish a year!

Now it's on to Poole Knobs Recreation Area, LaVergne, TN.

Natalbany Creek RV Park, Amite, Louisiana; February 29 to April 29, 2016

Our move from Tickfaw to Natalbany was easy, since it was only about 40 minutes away near Amite (pronounced A' meet) and the sites are concrete and almost level. The park itself is a bit on the seedy side – picnic table tops and seats are warped, the concrete road cracked and heaved, and the restrooms, while clean, need a lot of work. We had time over the weekend to settle in, then off to the hospital Monday for paperwork and Tuesday for surgery. The surgery went well and I had him back home and medicated by mid-afternoon. Wednesday was rainy and Thursday the heavens opened. I contacted the park office and reminded them that we would need to be notified as early as possible in case evacuation was expected since I'd need help getting the RV hooked up to travel. Also, because we could receive neither reliable cell nor TV reception, we were in the dark as to forecasts and news. After being assured that they would keep us informed, I checked to be sure things were in order outside and in, and we spent the evening watching DVDs. Before we went to bed, Rich checked outside and said there was about an inch of water on the pad, and still pouring rain. About 4:30 AM he woke me and told me the water was nearing the bottom step of the RV and we needed to hook up. By the time we had the slides in and I went out to try to find someone to help me get the 70 pound hitch on the truck, the water was up to my knees in places. We decided to get in the truck and get out while we could. The fellow I had asked to help in case we had to evacuate had already left with his unit, the couple next door was gone, and the only people we could see were leaving with their 5^th wheel. We were happy to follow them out to the main road since it was still dark and it was impossible to see the road. We surely didn't want to get hung up on a fire pit or sign post – none-the-less, my heart was still in my mouth. We drove into town and had breakfast at a Waffle House while we regrouped. Not knowing what else to do, we drove back to the RV park where we chatted with a deputy who was waiting for a boat to go in and rescue folks who hadn't gotten out. He suggested we go immediately and get a motel room for a couple of nights because with so many folks being evacuated, rooms would soon be scarce. We spent the next two days on pins and needles – hoping against hope that we'd have an undamaged home to go back to. As it turned out, leaving the trailer in the park was the best thing we could have done. We were able to move back in two days after we left and the RV was just as we had left it. Luckily, without realizing it, we had chosen the highest location in the entire park and the only thing we lost was our welcome mat. We later realized water had damaged the front stabilizer motor, but even so, we figure we got away cheaply. We saw a fellow with a 5^th wheel who wasn't so lucky. He had tried to get out, missed the road, ran over a fire pit, tore his black tank out from under his trailer, and who knows what else! Poor guy. There were propane tanks – one 100 pound – chairs, tarps, sections of fence, fittings, tools, grills, cell phones, two-way radio, and RV sewer hoses scattered all over the park – who knows what else. The heavy picnic tables (I could barely slide one end at a time) had floated into a deep gully.

To celebrate our exceptionally good luck, we went to The Boston Restaurant and got a delicious lunch – shrimp po' boy and a perfectly prepared burger. Can't wait to go back have some of their much touted sushi. We also found a Fox's Pizza Den and Murphy's Family Restaurant which were both better than average but not on a par with The Boston. I imagine we'll be revisiting each during our lengthy stay.

We took rides to Houma, Ponchatoula, and Mandeville, visited Bogue-Chitto State Park (they had water 20 feet deep in their lower campground loop – glad we weren't staying there!), and tried to keep Rich from going stir-crazy, which was especially difficult on the Easter weekend - the park was full to overflowing with families, all of which seemed to have dozens of kids and everyone had a golf cart. Finally Rich was released from the doctor's care and we headed north.