Collier-Seminole was a conundrum. The campground was awful
but the rest of the park was delightful. The campground has a small loop (19
campsites) for tents and pop-ups only, which has nice buffer zones between
large sites. The rest of the 101 sites are crammed together – two sites share
water and electric hookups, causing 50% of the sites to have hookups on the
wrong side if one is in an RV. The three restrooms are mediocre at best and the
entire campground has a very dingy feel. Our site was only about two feet wider
than our coach with the awning and slides out. The site next to us was even
narrower than ours. There were only two sites in the place we would want – 120
and 102. 102 was a generous size but only about 25 yards or so off of the
highway so there was considerable road noise.
The mosquitoes were fairly bad – we should have had a hint
when we saw a sign at the office when we checked in that gave the mosquito
index. “Moderate” was the lowest level,
I don’t remember what the mid-level was, and the highest level was “Run”.
Dickens was the most bothered by the mosquitoes and gnats – to the point that
we drove about 10 miles back to buy a mosquito netting hat that I put on him.
Believe it or not, I had no difficulty putting it on him and having him keep it
on!
The rest of the park is much better kept up – a blockhouse
visitor center, a recreated Seminole chickee and dugout canoe, and the only
remaining Bay City Walking Dredge (more on it later) are all easily accessible.
The nature trail has one of the three remaining Royal Palm Hammocks in the US,
which is more common to the Yucatan or Caribbean, and has a thick canopy of
royal palm trees, gumbo limbo, Jamaican dogwood, satin leaf, and many varieties
of ferns. There are two other trails, one is a 16 ½ mile trek through an Everglades cypress habitat
where panthers and bears are seen and the other 3 ½ miles Canoe rentals are
available, and fishing, biking, and hiking are enjoyed at the park. The
endangered Florida panther has been sighted within the park recently, along
with the more common raccoons and other native wildlife.
We celebrated Thanksgiving at the park by enjoying roasted
chicken breasts, bread stuffing, and pumpkin pie. Unfortunately, the campground
was very full and many of the folks had no idea of common courtesy – there were
hoards of screaming children, yapping dogs, RC cars racing up and down the
campground roads, loud adults, and blaring radios. A new one for us was the guy
who brought his projection TV and showed a movie on the side of his RV.
Friday, we drove the Tamiami Trail to Everglades City and
Chokoloskee, where I’ve never been to before in spite of having lived in Fort
Myers for more years than I would have liked. Chokoloskee was like taking a
step back in time – very small, old-fashioned, and no fast-food places!. Chokoloskee is the southern-most point you
can drive to on the West coast of Florida. We talked to a good-looking young
man at the Everglades National Park Visitor Center who is an Everglades City
native. He likes the small town life and fishing for a living and plans to stay,
although he could pass for a college student in any city.
I remember the seemingly endless trips from Fort Myers to
Miami back when I was a kid – the Trail had a few Seminole villages near the
road, some air boat ride businesses, but mostly, endless Everglades and a
two-lane highway. There was Ochopee, which I believe, had the smallest post
office in the US – about the size of a porta-potti! It’s not much different today – narrow
two-lane highway, marshes and hammocks, Indian villages, and air boat rides.
Much of the advertising is still in the 50’s style. The big difference are all
the trails, boardwalks, paths, and visitor centers that have been added so
passers-by can enjoy the Everglades close-up without much time.
On our way back to camp, we stopped at the Big Cypress Bend
Boardwalk, and The Marsh Trail in the 10,000 Island Preserve. We were very lucky during our Big Cypress
Bend walk where we viewed a big eagle’s nest, some huge, old cypress trees (one larger in diameter than our 9’ diameter
oak) a big, old turtle sunning on a log,
a blooming spider lily, and the highlight of the day, a black bear (the largest
one we’ve ever seen). I even got a photo of it, although you need to use your
imagination a bit.
A strangler fig growing around a cypress tree |
Our black bear in the upper left corner |
The black bear cropped from the photo above |
White ibis |
Rich standing between two huge cypress trees |
Some sort of lily - I was told a spider lily and an orchid lily... |
The Marsh trail was 2.2 miles long and since it was getting
hot and the trail was in full sun, we walked to the observation tower and spent
some time there, then turned around and came back to camp. While on the trail,
we saw white ibis, snowy egrets, some cute little duck-like birds that looked a
lot like pied-billed grebes, some great blue herons, and a wood stork. From our
vantage point on the observation tower, we were able to see a large number of
fish in the water below, and the little grebe chasing the fish. The grebe would
dive beneath the water and zoom after the fish. It was amazing how fast that little guy could
swam!
The little grebe that was chasing (and catching) the fish in the pond |
Wood stork |
On the drive back to camp, we saw lots of different birds,
most of which I couldn’t identify but am sure I saw a kingfisher sitting on a
fence. First one of those I’ve seen in years. All-in-all, a very enjoyable day.
The next day we went to the Naples
Depot Museum. It was an interesting place, with some nice pieces and the
admission was free. There was a cool
video along with sound, of a steam engine coming into a station that had been
arranged to show on the windows of one of the waiting rooms – as though the
train was actually outside.
1955 Chevy Bel Aire |
Two cars at theDepot Museum |
1922 Ford Model T Depot Hack |
One of the interesting things we saw
at the campground was the Bay City Walking Dredge. The dredge is a huge piece
of equipment – a framework 33 feet square with corner “shoes” 5 feet by 6 feet,
two center “shoes” located on the left and right side of the framework which
are 5 feet by 12 feet. It is on these center shoes that the entire dredge rests
as the dredge then is swung forward, or walked. The shovel capacity was one
yard – imagine! The machine could dig seven hundred cubic yards of material in
a ten-hour period with an experienced operator. This amounted to seventy
seconds per cycle of digging, swinging, dumping, and moving forward. It was
with this dredge that a ten-mile portion of the Tamiami Trail was built between
1927-28. The road had been begun in
1915, bur WW I diverted funding and interest from the project. Once
construction began again, two men operated this machine six days a week,
working ten-hour shifts each day. They worked in sweltering heat fighting
swarms of mosquitoes and unlimited mud. The dredge crews lived on floating
barges or trailers pulled by tractors.
A quote from a communication to the
Board of County Commissioners on August 1, 1926 gives us a better idea of how
tedious all this must have been: “The Walking Bay City Dredge working on the
cut off from Palm Hammock to the Marco-Ft. Myers road has made very good
progress this month, making a total of 4,400 lineal feet of grade which equals
a total of 20,103 cu. yds. handled.”
Presumably this was a report on work done in July – not even a mile!
Now it is on to Lake Kissimmee State
Park near Lake Wales.
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