We crossed the Columbia River Gorge
once again on our way to Oregon and Rock Creek Reservoir. The drive
kept me busy looking at the undulating landscape – much of which
was filled with golden fields of wheat waiting to be harvested. Other
fields had been harvested, with only the wheat stubble and tracks of
the giant harvesters dissecting the fields remaining. Along with the
fields of grain came the grain elevators, of course, testament to the
annual harvests. Beyond the wheat fields we often glimpsed Mt. Hood
and once in a while, Mt. Rainier peaked over the the horizon – at
times they were both in
view in spite of being nearly 200 miles
apart. Our destination was tucked about 15 miles away from the
nearest little town and very different from the manicured Hood Park.
Rock Creek Reservoir Campground (not to be confused with two other
Rock Creek Campgrounds in the state). There was no water nor
electricity at the sites, so we filled our tank with fresh water on
the way in, then found our site and backed in. One sniff when we
opened the doors told us we were in a Ponderosa Pine forest – there
is no aroma like it. The campground was quiet except for the gray
diggers (California ground squirrels) which seemed to be scurrying all over. They are obviously squirrels, but their bodies have little white spots all over. As with many other squirrels, they can be a nuisance, and people around here seem to hate them. The hosts came over and gave us a great overview of the area and, when we mentioned the large number of yellow jackets buzzing around the campsite and sting both of us, they brought over a couple of traps. Within about 30 minutes, each trap was boasting more than twenty of the nasty little critters.
The next day we drove a big loop (197
to 216 ) around south of camp, through Tygh Valley, Maupin, and Pine
Grove. During the drive, we saw three of the largest peaks in the
area – Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Rainier and had a picnic
lunch along the Deschutes River. There were signs for the Barlow
Trail, the Pioneer Woman's Grave, and the Pioneer Brides Trail, but
the camp hosts had said the trails to those spots weren't good and
they have an old “beater” truck they use when they go places like
that, so we sadly, we bypassed them. Maybe we'll go to rent-a-wreck
next time we're in the area.
The following day we took a walk around
the forest. The hosts had told us about an eagles nest beyond the
picnic area and said you could often see the adults and their
offspring if you were lucky. We were more than lucky. We watched an
adult eagle perched in the top of a snag as he/she seemed to be
watching two young eagles testing their wings. As the two young birds
moved across the sky, the adult turned its head to follow their
flight. We must have watched for 45 minutes before reluctantly moving
on. The reservoir was nearly dry – testament to the drought in the
area – but we did see a deer
picking its way through the forest
and, of course, the ubiquitous gray diggers.
The weather, although comfortable at
night with our battery-powered fans, in the high 90's during the day
so we decided to take another day trip – a big loop to the foot of
Mt. Hood, over to Portland, the Dalles, and back home. We began the
day driving through the thick forest toward Mt. Hood. It was around 9
AM and 52 degrees with a chilly 10-15 MPH wind when we reached the
food of the mountain. We bypassed most of Portland, then headed over
to the Columbia River Gorge and took the Historic Columbia
River
Highway east for a pretty drive to three of the beautiful waterfalls
along the route. Once back on the road, we stopped at a Native
American fish market and bought some wonderful smoked and fresh
salmon as well as a beautiful (and later, delicious) salmon filet,
then on to The Dalles for fresh produce and on home.
The next day was supposed to be 105
degrees, and since we didn't want to stay in camp the entire day, we
headed back to The Dalles to check out the dam, have a nice lunch,
and then visit a museum – a great way to spend a hot day.
The dam tour was only open for tours on
Saturdays so we signed up and spent some time going through the
displays at the visitor's center. It was a fascinating story about
travel on the river and how it changed. From 1863 to 1915, the river
was blocked by nearly ten miles of impassable rapids between The
Dalles and Celilo. Steamboat passengers traveled the ten miles by
portage trains, then boarded waiting steamboats to complete their
journey. In 1915, The Dalles-Celilo canal was completed. It covered
eight-and-a-half miles and was 65 feet wide – too narrow for
two-way barge traffic.
None-the-less, it was a boon to river travel.
In 1957, the canal was replaced by the Dalles Lock and Dam. In 1975,
after years of work, a series of locks and dams opened navigation 465
miles inland, creating a seaport in Lewiston, Idaho. Today, the
Columbia/Snake River System is the nation's second-largest water
highway. The Port of Lewiston alone ships a million tons of wheat and
barley down the river each year along with potatoes from Idaho,
lumber from Canada, grain from the Dakotas, and minerals from Montana
and Wyoming.
The fish ladders were another part of
the dam that caught out eye. Built for salmon and other fish what
migrate, the ladders create a series of ramps that go up, across the
top, and down the other side of the dam. These ramps are filled with
water, but are divided across the ramp at intervals to create pools.
These dividers aren't solid – they often have an opening on the
side that allows the fish to swim through or jump over the divider.
Fish ladders are specifically designed for the species of fish in the
area – the speed and amount of water flow, the design of the
pass-throughs, etc.. There is, of course, a lot more to
designing a
fish ladder and not everyone is a proponent of them, but at this
point it seems to be a reasonable compromise between the dams and the
no-dam folks.
From there, we had delicious lunch at
The Riverenza. Rich had a fat gyro with an equally big flavor and I
got a cup of fresh tomato soup and humus with multigrain chips. It
was a wonderful lunch and it's on our list of places at which we'll
stop the next time we're out here.
Our next stop was the Columbia Gorge
Museum and Discovery Center. The museum covers the
Lewis and Clark
Museum, Columbia River Gorge from volcanoes to floods to the early
inhabitants, settlers, agriculture, and the Ice Age. While we have
learned much about most off the topics, there is always more to learn
(and I forget these days at a faster rate than I learn), we were
mesmerized about the Missoula Floods (also known as the Spokane or
Bretz Floods) at the end of the Ice Age and the jaw-dropping changes
it made to the landscape. During the Ice Age an ice dam had formed
and with the warming temperatures, sudden ruptures occurred and
waters rushed down the Clark Fork and the Columbia River, flooding much of eastern Washington and the Willamette alley in western Oregon. Geologists estimate that a cycle of flooding and freezing of the of the lake and dam lasted an average of 55 years and that the floods occurred several times over the period between 15,000 and 12,000 years ago. The last of the floods moved 540 cubic miles of water, 40 cubic miles of ice, 50 cubic miles of rock, sediment, debris down the Columbia River Gorge at speeds up to 65 miles per hour and overflowed into Portland/Vancouver area as well as the Clackamas, Tualatin Yamhill, and Willamette
valleys at a depth of 400 feet. There are a lot of good books and web sites about the Missoula floods, if you're interested.
We returned to camp late afternoon and
sat outside in the shade. Since the humidity was so low, the 100
degree heat wasn't unbearable while we sat in the shade and a light
breeze blew, but even after the sun went down and windows open and
fans on, it was warm inside. After a restless night we called our
next stop and arranged to arrive two nights early, let the hosts know
we were leaving early, and left for an electric site in Elma, Washington.
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